This thought came to me when once again, Ghana, the Gateway to Africa won no medals at the last Olympics. Surprise! Surprise!
ON ITS FOUR yearly cycle, like clockwork, the Olympics were due to start. In the sports section of the newspapers, we were informed of the athletes Ghana hoped to send, and once again, there were speculations as to whether we'd win any medals and which sports these were likely to be in.
Looking at the competition as well as the great facilities and money that are pumped into athletes of opponent countries, the chances of any gold medals being brought home, though desirable, were slim.
While reading one particular sports article, I suddenly thought, if there was a spitting event in the Olympics, Ghana would do exceedingly well.
Look around you and watch the expertise with which people in Accra spit all over the place. It's a national sport!
Ghana may not bring home the gold medal as, I believe, the Arabs have got spitting down to a fine art, but the chance of a silver medal is a huge possibility.
Imagine the stadium and world TV cameras waiting with bated breath as a competitor stands behind a line and the commentator informs the world of the competitor's name and country. Applause.
The competitor, instead of throwing a javelin or a discus, then leans back, clears the throat making that so distinguishable of sounds, pucker up their lips and there it goes flying through the air with the greatest of ease, its journey followed by the cameras. Then it lands. Thud! A marksman runs with a tape to measure the distance, which is quickly displayed on electronic monitors, the crowd erupts with applause and cheers, while TV cameras zoom in on the face of the competitor who raises their arms and smiles. A world record, followed by several action replays in slow motion.
Unfortunately for Ghana, there is no spitting section in the Olympics.
Joking apart, walking in the streets nowadays is becoming more and more perilous. Not only do we have to contend with avoiding exposed stinking gutters, people throwing dirty water, and drivers who behave as if they were on a racing track, but we face the real danger of pistol Kwaku and Akua, the fastest spit slingers on the West Coast.
Sometimes, I think it might be slightly safer in the middle of a war zone.
I was discussing certain aspects of Ghana life with an imported friend when he said that he simply adjusts to the environment in which he finds himself. So, he throws his rubbish anywhere, urinates wherever he pleases and has now joined the large legion of expert spitters.
I have stubbornly tried to stick to certain ideals but I must tell you, even though I strive to be as Ghanaian as possible, there are certain things I hope never to do.
So, imagine my dismay when walking in the street one day I had to clear my throat. Having no handkerchief handy I did the unforgivable, yes, I spat and did it unconsciously.
As the spittle left my mouth, making its journey to the ground, alarm bells went off in my head; I couldn't rewind the action and watched it land with a loud thud on the ground. Horror, I'd actually done it!
I looked around in embarrassment, hoping it hadn't been seen, but no one had taken the blindest bit of notice. Too busy spitting themselves.
Though it sounds silly, I pondered over this for a little while and vowed never to do it again. Unfortunately, I've done it on at least three more occasions.
When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Do I have to?
Being terrified of being spat on, and I have had a few close shaves, where adding insult to injury, the perpetrator had just turned and said, “Kose wae,” continued and spat another ten metres ahead narrowly missing another target, I decided to observe this habit closely so I could catch the early signs and get out of the way of any unwanted flying missiles.
You'd be walking just behind or passing by someone when lo and behold, you hear that so distinct clearing of the throat sound and a big blob of spittle flies out of the person's mouth.
Anyone who's spat in public, and I have on at least four occasions, so I speak from experience, knows that as the spittle travels to the ground, particles leave the main body of spit and spray in other directions.
If you are lucky enough while passing by someone who is in the action of spitting, then you'll only be attacked by the spray but if you're really unlucky and happen to be strategically placed in the line of fire, it lands on your shoe or clothes, you groan or shriek and the person turns around and simply says, sorry.
As if that's enough.
If you have the temerity to get upset or try to explain to the person that a simple sorry is not the answer and that they should be more careful, either the enye hwee and the 'exercise patience' brigade members arrive or the perpetrator gets offended as if it were your fault that you got spat on.
Talk about being in the wrong place at the wrong time.
Here are a few of the signs to look out for: The moment a walking person turns their head to one side, stop, you never know what may happen next.Put a large distance between yourself and anyone who has a chewing stick, sponge or kola nut in their mouth, I can guarantee you that sooner or later something has to give and it may be all over your clothes.Avoid anyone who clears their throat a lot. It's a really obvious sign.
Regrettably, there are going to be times when the signals are not so clear-cut.
There are some people who have perfected the art of spitting that they aim straight ahead totally assured that the distance cleared would be far enough to avoid spitting on themselves. The same however, cannot be said for the poor victim who strays in the path of the flying object.
The worse case I've seen to date was when the unlucky chap sitting next to me in a taxi was suddenly hit on the neck by a large blob of . . . I don't even want to think about it.
A trotro was passing by when one of the passengers leant out of the window and the rest, as they say, was history. There was no way the man could have seen that coming and I'm sure he's still traumatised by the event, poor soul.
No matter what you say or do, the habit of spitting left, right and centre is going to prevail. It's too deeply embedded for it to be eradicated any time soon. It is part of the culture.
You never know, one day in the future I can imagine all Ghanaians proudly boasting when spitting becomes an Olympic event and Ghana brings home the Gold or Silver medal.
However, until such time, as the Sergeant on the American police series, Hill Street Blues, always said, “ ‘Let's all be careful out there.’ ”
NANA AMA HAS a big ol' butt, oh yeah! Akosua has a big ol' butt, oh yeah! Alba has a big ol' butt, oh nooooooooo!
I woke up with a cold sweat, then it all flashed before me, was this punishment for being a fatist?
Back in London, while sitting at my office desk, stuffing my face with sugar-covered doughnuts oozing with jam, I was very quick to pass comment on the jiggling cellulite covering the anatomy of certain folk.
In those days, I was a regular at the gym, the night-clubs and rode a bike everyday, so I was fit, fit, fit. I could afford to talk.
My boss would joke telling me I was a fatist, and as I moved onto the next sticky doughnut I would joke back remarking that in my next life, God would punish me by putting a ton of cellulite on my butt, never expecting it to come true in a zillion years. At the rate things are going, I won't have to wait until the next life; it seems the agenda has been re-scheduled.
Alba's got a big ol' butt, oh help!
Mike, a colleague, with whom I also studied in London, always advocates the Western way of doing things. He thinks everything from the West is better. He arrived in one of the offices looking for a favour from the very sweet large young man in charge. Mike, not the most tactful of people at the best of times, decided to use the flattering Western approach.
“Reggie, have you lost weight?” Patting Reggie on his large stomach, Mike plastered on a winning smile and turned to me, “Alba, don't you think he's lost weight?” Grinning and patting.
Reggie glared, waiting for my response. I mumbled a few non-committal words and sheepishly slunk away, collapsing with laughter the moment I was out of earshot.
As you can probably guess, Mike didn't get that favour. He was shocked that his compliment hadn't done the trick.
Later on, I cornered him about the results of his Western approach.
“But in Britain, if you tell someone that they're losing weight, they're happy, they feel good,” he protested.
“Yes, Mike, but that's Britain and this is Ghana, and things just don't always work out the same.”
Here in Ghana, when a person carries a certain amount or a lot of weight, it is considered an advantage, a sign of prosperity, and people are happy when they are told they're getting big, a huge - excuse the pun - compliment.
In Britain, if you told someone that they were getting fat, it would not be taken as a compliment and if you were not careful, and tried to push the point, you'd be in danger of getting your lights punched out by the offended person.
As with all cultures, there are different thoughts about what is classed as aesthetic beauty. In the West, being slim is the ideal and it's shoved down the population's throats by the media, the slim flaunting their slimness making large people feel psychologically guilty, as if it were a deadly sin to carry excess weight.
People rush to weight-watchers, take up the latest fad diets or strain themselves huffing and puffing in sweaty stinking gyms, all in the quest to shed that guilt, while the likes of me sit guzzling doughnuts and chips, making fatist jokes.
Yes, I'm guilty!
I don't advocate that people should be pencil thin like the world famous anorexic looking super-models, equally I don't agree with the school of thought that you should have a huge belly and a backside that wobbles its way around the corner as the rest of your body is nearing the next turning.
Yes, yes, yes, I hear our men shout, that they love big backsides, the type that you can place a tray of food on without it ever spilling.
Being an obolo is not my idea of being gorgeous, especially when I'm on the receiving end of it in a taxi or trotro. Large people don't seem to be aware of their weight and they propel themselves around comet like, crashing into poor unsuspecting folk, virtually crushing them to death in transport or bouncing them off the street.
I have no problem with big, truly, it is no problemo, but mounds of flaying cellulite, don't denote prosperity. It is not attractive and can't be comfortable, especially under our scorching sun, and it's definitely not healthy. Well, that's my opinion, anyway!
I can see many a heart attack waiting to happen plus all the other fat related diseases, and certainly the feet would not be thankful for the excess weight they carry as people slowly huff and puff around their daily duties.
Most people will go to all lengths to look after their homes, their property and their clothes while their bodies are left to get on with it, never thinking about the pressure that their heart - yes, that vital organ needed for pumping blood and oxygen around the system to keep us alive - and arteries are put under due to the stress of so-called prosperity.
I'm sure that every time a person is complimented with, you're getting fat; the poor heart groans its poor little heart out.
So, imagine my horror, when one day meeting an acquaintance on the street, she decided to compliment me Ghanaian style. She was about ten feet away when her voice exploded like a hand grenade across the street, “Eh, you're getting fat.”
And good morning to you too, I thought.
Her booming voice coupled with a huge grin stunned me, especially as she was about twice my size, and there she was screeching about me getting fat. I grinned through severely gritted teeth and thanked her, passing by quickly before she had the chance to do any more damage to my ego.
I saw her two days later - there wasn't enough time to avoid her - and she still felt the need to compliment me further. This time, in a much louder voice - as if it were possible - and gaining the attention of others around.
I nodded my greeting and managed to painfully glue a smile on my face. I was scared. Was I joining the ranks of the fat?
Each morning I'd scrutinise myself in the mirror and wonder if my punishment for being a fatist was finally coming true. Talk about the chickens coming home to roost!
I pleaded with a close friend to assure me - lie even - that I wasn't getting fat. She laughed, “But don't you know that people only say that for something to say. They think they are being kind. Don't worry!”
Don't worry! Those two words, again. I was worried.
My fat cells, encouraged by the Ghanaian paradise where being told you're getting fat is a big compliment, have now decided to give my slim cells a run for their money. But, action needs to be taken fast because being told that I'm getting fat is definitely not on.
So, just to be doubly sure that I don't get any more Ghanaian fat compliments, the trainers, the skipping rope and the aerobics video have been brought out of retirement.
Alba's got a big ol' butt! You've got the wrong person mate.
OH NO, ANOTHER sister lost to the cause, I thought. What had precipitated this dismay? Four little words. ‘I am getting married.’
Not being a huge fan of the marriage club, I wasn't overjoyed about the prospects of losing another single female friend to that club. Call me selfish if you will, but marriage can cause irreparable destruction to close female bonds that were once as valuable as gold dust. Experience had taught me that much.
My then best friend shocked me a few years ago after she got married. Either I'd changed or she'd changed, I don't know which, but I didn't like the regular subtle comments that implied I was jealous because she was married and I wasn't.
As if a record needle stuck in a groove, she regularly stated with prima donna hauteur, “When you become a married woman, you'll understand.”
Understand what? Did women suddenly become privy to special information the moment the ring was slipped onto their finger, and they said 'I do?' Metamorphosing into Madams endowed with the powerful secrets of the marriage club, rushing to put on weight and justify their existence on this planet by becoming Mrs. Somebody.
Within six months, a close friendship of fifteen years was in tatters. I might add that her husband wasn't dismayed by the demise of our friendship. Along with other single female friends dropped on the way, I was and still am hurt and confused about the about turn of a friend who was like a sister to me.
To add to my experiences, I've heard countless stories of women who have lost good friends through marriage, simply because the husbands didn't want their wives being friends with single women. Throwing the cat amongst the pigeons by pitching women against each other and strengthening the cultural belief that single women are husband snatchers and not to be trusted. Conquering and dividing. As if the single friend would become an inevitable threat to the marriage.
Obviously, it's a powerful tool because too many women buy into it, even though history has proven time and time again that the best ally a woman can have is another woman.
As children, women - our mothers, aunties and grandmothers - care for our every need. When we are heartbroken and suffering, again, it is women we turn to as confidants and comforters. Once we become old and decrepit, of supposedly not much use to society, women once again, become the source of our comfort, and yet, knowing all this, we spend our most productive years in suspicion of each other. All because of men! Where is the sense in that?
As I spoke with my soon to be married friend, all the above flashed through my mind and I stuttered, “Who, how, when?”
She said, “Some man bi.”
Some man bi! This was the person she was going to spend, probably, hopefully, the rest of her life with and she referred to him as, some man bi. Hmmmm!
“Why?” I stammered, somehow not totally convinced by her tone.
A wan smile appeared on her face, and instead of 'I love him,' or any of the other romantic phrases that gush out of women's mouths when they talk about the men they love, she sighed, “Hmmm, it's about time, my family . . . society.”
And those, apparently, are good enough reasons for saddling yourself with a marriage? Crikey! I thought that in this day and age - the 21st Century - a professional and highly educated woman such as my friend would have been above such reasons for marriage. How little I know!
But I learn fast, because what followed the marriage gave me an insight into how extraordinarily clever some Ghanaian women are. Barely had the ink dried on the marriage certificate, when her husband was on a plane going abroad, where he has stayed until now. She definitely knows what she's about.
I laugh as I recall a passage I read in a book. An elderly woman had recently become widowed, and was passing down knowledge to her granddaughter.
She said, “ ‘There's nothing good about ageing except what the years have taught me about men. You don't need them for much because they are not good for much and the best thing any woman can look forward to in a marriage is widowhood.’ ”
Well, many Ghanaian women obviously aren't waiting around for widowhood; long distant marriages are the next best thing, allowing them to enjoy their lives - as my now glowing and happily married friend's smile proves each time we meet.
I know so many Ghanaians involved in long distance relations, but could never understand the sense behind marrying someone and then living separately in two countries or on two continents. But what do I know?
I stood at a shop counter when a man asked his friend how she was enjoying married life.
“Very much,” she replied, a secretive smile playing around her lips.
I took a step back when I found out that she had only been married for two months and her husband was abroad. His return date not known.
Then it hit me. Of course she's happy with the marriage: she'd appeased her parents and family while at the same time fulfilling the cultural and societal role demanded of her as proof of her womanhood. She is Mrs. Somebody! All this achieved without having to go through the probable headache of having her dear husband giving her grief with his physical dominating presence. No wonder she looked like the cat that got the cream.
All marriages are happy. It's the living together afterwards that causes all the trouble.
This thought is perfectly typified by the happy marriage of Sàngó and Oya, the God of thunder and the Goddess of lightning of Yurobaland. Sàngó was a goat herder who hated anything to do with death. Oya was the keeper of the dead spirits and the cemetery and had no love of goats, and so they never lived together. Of all the legends, theirs was the most successful and powerful marriage.
I doubt if many of our women know the Órìsà legends of Yurobaland, but they've certainly got the spirit of Oya.
I know a hairdresser whose husband has been in the US for over ten years and has only managed to show his face in Ghana on two occasions. Now tell me, what kind of marriage is that supposed to be?
Looking at the gleeful smile eternally plastered on her face, I'd say, the perfect marriage of course. She happily displays her wedding ring, fulfilling her societal and cultural duty of being Mrs. Somebody without being seen as a threat to other women. She is free to get on with her life as she wishes without question and innuendo, and she looks younger and happier than her friends whose husbands insist on staying in the same country with them.
Separate abodes, or even better, separate countries, could be the way forward in achieving perfect marriages, leading to a decrease in the divorce rate and allowing women to fulfil imposed cultural obligations while still enjoying their lives.
Now, that's what I call progress.
IF I HAD one, just one Ghana Pesewa for each time I heard ‘Are you sure?’ I certainly wouldn't be here telling this story but somewhere on a beach in the North East of Brazil, in my skimpy bikini swinging in a hammock strung between two coconut trees and sipping a long cool drink, listening to some nice samba-reggae or bossa nova and watching cute muscular men playing football.
There's nothing wrong with dreaming, is there?
Now, considering the thousands of Cedis needed to fulfil my dream of being on that beach, you can imagine how often I hear, ‘Are you sure?’ Why do Ghanaians have to 'Are you sure' everything? I know it's not the intention, but every time I hear that phrase it's as if my honesty is being called into question.
There is nothing wrong with questioning things, curiosity is a healthy pursuit, but people don't seem to question the things they really ought to. You know, those pressing issues of corruption, crime, education, health, increasing fuel prices and vanishing cocaine parcels. No, it seems those things aren't important.
What is important is something trivial like me declaring I'm a Ghanaian. Oh yes, that would get questioned instantly. ‘Are you sure?’
When my made in Ghana friends complain about our people - who doesn’t? - the other made in Ghana Ghanaians, I always philosophise (as if it’s going to do any good) by telling them that the majority of any country's population is made up of the rabble and the riffraff, so they shouldn’t be surprised.
Obviously, these hair-tearing-out events happen with those riffraff and not the intelligent minority, such as your good self, reading this article right now. No Siree, no riffraff here!
One night, a friend and I were the last customers in a restaurant. My friend made a call on his mobile phone and so, not wanting to be a space invader, a concept most Ghanaians still don't understand, I left the table to give him some privacy.
The two waiters sat idly waiting for us to go, boredom etched over their weary faces. I sauntered around and finally ended up at the bar. I smiled at them, and proceeded to look at a magazine.
This is the conversation that ensued.
Waiter 1: You are Malian!
Me: No, I'm not.
It is a well known fact that Ghanaians know everything - especially, the male of the species.
Waiter 2: You’re Senegalese!
Me: I'm not Senegalese either.
They were stunned, to say the least. How dare I tell Ghanaians that they could possibly be wrong. Immediately, I earned my first pesewa of the night. Yes, you've guessed it!
Waiter 1: Are you sure?
You see how absurd this question is. I'm a grown woman, so, you'd think by now I would have, at least, known where I came from? Or, were they implying that I was masquerading as a Ghanaian?
Okay, let’s play devil’s advocate and say I were masquerading as a Ghanaian, shouldn’t they have taken my desire to be a Ghanaian as a compliment? Not my people o! ‘Are you sure?’
Still waiting for my friend to finish his call, I decided to have some fun.
Me: Of course.
Waiter 1: You don't look like a Ghanaian.
What does a Ghanaian look like, you may ask? My exact sentiment, so I went on to do exactly just that.
Me: So, what does a Ghanaian look like?
The conversation got sillier.
Waiter 2: Your hair is not the way Ghanaian ladies have their hair.
I have natural hair, which is twisted into locks.
Me: Oh! And what else?
Waiter 1: Your accent is not Ghanaian.
Me: That's because I've lived abroad most of my life.
Waiter 2: Eh, and your skin colour, it's the Senegalese people who have that skin colour.
You see what I mean by riffraff.
Me: Are you trying to tell me that no other women in Ghana have this skin tone?
I'm very dark and exceedingly proud of it, but maybe all the women they know have bleached that lovely darkness away. Therefore, being as dark as I am, I had to be Senegalese. I presume that was his reasoning.
Waiter 2: Also the way you are slim.
Me: Are there no slim women in Ghana?
I see lots of dark, slim, lovely Ghanaian women every day. But then, they may be Senegalese masquerading as Ghanaians.
Waiter 2: And your face, long and slim, just like Senegalese people.
This man wanted to be right at all costs. I wondered if he had ever been to Senegal or if he had a PHD in Senegalese anatomy and features. It sounded like he did.
Me: Why would I say I was a Ghanaian if I wasn't?
Waiter 2: Okay, so where do you come from?
At bloody last!
Me: My father is from Kumasi and my mother is from Kade.
They were shocked. If I had mentioned any of the larger cities, they could have stayed in denial. But Kade, little ol' Kade, even they had to accept that maybe I was telling the truth, but it was still too much for them.
Waiter 1: Are you sure?
Me: It's true! Kade, just after Akwatia.
Waiter 2: Ei, so you know Kade?
Me: Oh, yes I do!
The penny finally dropped and all of a sudden I was one of them, they grinned from ear to ear, and I suffered for the umpteenth time, “Wo ho te sen?”
This was the final test to prove my Ghanaian-ness.
I replied, “Me ho ye.”
That was all it took to pass the ‘Ghanaian test.’ I was now their sister and we chatted away like close family members. I didn’t want to bring the good times to a close, but my friend had finished his call and I’m sure those waiters wanted to go home. It was really late.
On the way home, my friend said, “You and those waiters were getting on really well.”
I looked at him with a wicked grin, as I couldn't resist it, and asked, “Are you sure?”
ONE OF THE many fantastic things about being in Ghana is that I'm constantly learning, or proving how stupid I am, depending on how one decides to interpret it.
Whenever I think that I have things finally sussed, getting closer to becoming a bona fide Ghanaian, bam, I go on another learning curve and realise that I still have a very long way to go.
This new lesson I learnt, all because of two little words. ‘Don't’ and ‘worry’.
Definition of worry. 1. to be or cause to be anxious or uneasy, esp. about something uncertain or a potential danger. 2. to disturb the piece of mind of; bother. Definition of do. 1. to perform or complete a deed or action. Definition of not. 1. used to negate the sentence, phrase or word that it modifies. The contraction of 'do' and 'not' is 'don't.'
So for all intents and purposes, don't worry is supposed to mean that you have no need to worry or be anxious, but worry (big time), as I have found to my detriment, is exactly what you have to do when a Ghanaian utters those two words, especially if the words are accompanied by a benevolent smile.
In the case of the saga I'm going to narrate, there was the added embarrassment of telling a truth that Ghanaians always assume to be a lie, quickly learning that honesty is never the best policy, because no one is going to believe you. It's better to spin a long yarn.
During a week of tragedy, when my television finally succumbed to the power fluctuation onslaught, the electrician who had become a friend materialised at my door. Maybe he sniffed out the problem.
At the time, I didn't have enough money and asked him to wait until I had funds to pay for the TV to be repaired.
Days later, however, he appeared on my doorstep with a television repairman.
I was surprised, “But I told you I don't have money!”
The television repairman took a few steps back. My electrician grinned, “Oh you, I've known you for a long time, don't worry! You've been getting me jobs so I'll do it for you. Don't worry!”
I don't like being in debt so I spoke slowly and loudly as if he were hard of hearing, “Leave it. When I have money I'll call you.”
He insisted, “Oh you too, I told you, don't worry. I'll take it.”
His demeanour stuck out like sincerity during an election campaign but my silly genes read into the situation with innocence.
The man had known me for a long time; he knew my personality and attitude towards many things, especially money. Alas, I had also forgotten that Ghanaians don't treat people individually but use the same yardstick for everyone. The 'this is how we do things here' syndrome.
He appeared at my door a week later, triumphant. The television was fixed and he was going to return it the next day. His uncertain grin and the tangible vibe in the air told me something was not quite kosher, so just to make sure we understood ourselves, I once again, went to great pains to reiterate that I did not have money yet to pay for the television.
“Oh, don’t worry,” he said with a smile that had all the wattage of Las Vegas and the truthfulness of a politician’s election promises.
My silly genes reigned supreme.
I didn’t understand that his ‘don’t worry’ meant, ‘I don’t believe that you don’t have money but I am not going to offend you by calling you a liar, so I will have it fixed and you will pay when it is done.’
Another baffling point is that people can’t accept the fact that someone like me - who has been abroad - could ever be short of cash. Oh, if they only knew the truth. But then, they’ll probably not believe me, so what’s the point anyway?
A week later the television repairman appeared on my doorstep with my television but sans my now ex-electrician/friend. My bill was 150,000 Cedis and he wanted the money there and then. Was I vexed or was I vexed? I was vexed!
Well, we had a long-winded conversation and in the end, (one good thing I have to say about Ghana, it has made me a much more tolerant and patient - mostly done through gritted teeth - person) I 'took it as it is' and arranged to pay when I had the money.
I was so embarrassed, because across his face, written in bold letters, were these words, 'I know you have money but I'm not saying anything.' My mouth smiled, the rest of my face refused to co-operate because, through no fault of my own, I found myself in a situation that goes against all my money principles.
Looking for a little sympathy, I went whingeing about my 'don't worry' worries to a cousin. She didn't help matters by shrieking with laughter. “Ho, but you too, don't you know what don't worry means?
“No,” I sighed wearily.
“Ah! If a Ghanaian tells you not to worry, that's the time to really worry-o.”
I understand now!
To add to the new lesson learnt, and this shows you how naive I was, another friend also explained the whole money deal and why the 'I don't believe you' reactions of people when they hear the phrase, “I don't have money.”
Apparently, if someone says that they don't have money, it doesn't mean that they don't have money, it means that they have a cushion limit, let's say 1,000,000 Cedis. The moment they start eating into that cushion amount is when they don't have money, hence, the look of disbelief on the television repairman's face at my honest 'I don't have money' declaration.
And there was me thinking that 'I don't have money' means 'I don't have money.' Why is life made so complicated? As if there weren't enough hardships already.
The electrician has been keeping a very low profile, which goes to prove that he knew exactly what he was doing and knows exactly how I'll react when I next see him.
On a brighter note, I was glad that I hadn't paid for the television's repair because five minutes after we switched it on, the damn thing went off again and refused to come back on. You should have seen the look on the repairman's face as he lugged the television back to his workshop, it was priceless. I nearly felt sorry for him!
So, what did I learn at school today? I learnt that, 1. no one is going to believe me when I say I don't have money and, 2. the moment someone tells me not to worry, I know that I need to worry. Big time.
“SO YOU'RE TRYING to kill me eh?” he gasped loudly for all to hear. Sweat rolled off his gleaming face as his protruding belly wobbled in tempo to the loud throbbing music, his legs threatening to give way from underneath him. Men have all the fun, don't they?
As young men, they can swagger around, invincible as if the universe were created for their benefit and, while after a certain age, women are expected to throw in the towel and sit at home like perfect Madonnas, men in their ripe old age can continue as if gravity and age had no effect on them. I have great admiration for their tenacity, though others may call them foolish.
All one needs to do is to go to the clubs and discos to see them with pubescent, nubile women, young enough to be their granddaughters, as they make the sad statement, ‘We too, we dey.’ Let's hear it for the boys!
From what I know of the Western world, older men, trying to chase away the proverbial male menopause also run after younger women, but I rarely saw any of them trying to keep up with the young women on the dance floor. They are smart enough not to 'go there,' or risk the embarrassed laughter of others. The same embarrassment children feel when their parents are publicly affectionate towards each other.
Even in clubs here in Accra, the older white males would either sit watching their young catches dancing or if they do take to the dance floor, they keep to the safe two-step. No use in heading out into deeper waters, apart from the fact that it's a universal truth, that most white people don't know how to dance in rhythm.
All this takes a new twist when the black male becomes involved, or to be even more specific, the Third World black Ghanaian male.
My friend and I were shaking our thang at a nightclub and though I was having great fun giving the fat boy who was trying to keep up with me a hard time, I knew my body would pay the price the following day, though I consider myself relatively young.
So this old man, in his late fifties at a guess, was trying to keep up with a very flexible young woman who's moves would have sent any Dancehall Queen or professional Mapouka dancer running for cover.
“So you're trying to kill me eh?” His attempt at keeping up with the agile young woman was the most likely thing to hasten up his encounter with his Maker.
The impressed young woman laughed and upped the tempo by gyrating vigorously towards the ground, her waist and hip movements bringing a new meaning to the word 'wind,' and of course, the old man felt inspired to follow suit.
At this point, I decided to get off the dance floor and watch the action that was about to unfold. I have great instincts for such things so my friend and I got ring side seats.
There are certain songs that I class as songs to misbehave to, and 'Wind the punani' by Freddi Funkstone, is one of those. If that song is playing, as it was, wild horses wouldn't have been able to drag me off the dance floor, but my instincts told me that something special was about to happen.
Once the young woman had gyrated as low to the ground as possible, she stayed there and homeboy, not to be outdone, went with her. People gave them space and watched with admiration while he turned his head around grinning at all and sundry as he basked in the glory of his fifteen seconds of fame.
His face continued to shine while his belly, now trapped between his knees and chest, had little room to manoeuvre and his backside jerked awkwardly backwards and forwards. I thought I detected a pained look flash across his face, but maybe it was just wishful thinking.
People started to applaud, but the young woman had tired and had moved back into a standing position. Homeboy on the other hand, was still crouched on the floor.
The song finished and another one started, the woman started to wind again and the dear fellow was still on the floor, jiggling about pathetically. That's when everyone sussed that something was not quite right.
He continued to grin, as losing face was not part of his script for the night. All he needed to do was get up and he would have been home free. The young woman would have been assured that He Da Man.
My friend laughingly said, “He's stuck-o, he can't get up.”
“Oh don't be so wicked, he's just looking for his contact lenses,” my reply dripped with sarcasm.
Others started to titter, it was the third song since he'd achieved his crouching dragon position, his grin had completely vanished and he looked white around the gills. He looked around helplessly, but in everyone's minds, bets were being laid as to whether the old man would ever get up of his own accord. His cover had been blown.
After many pitiful attempts at getting up, he had to appeal for help. Smiling secretly, others eagerly rushed to his aid, unfortunately for him, gravity had locked in and he was stuck in that position.
The unimpressed young woman had moved on and was gyrating with a younger man who looked capable of keeping up with her.
To cap it all, the old man had to be escorted to a taxi waiting to rush him to hospital. It was a sad but funny sight; there he was, suspended in midair still in his crouching dragon position, and hanging off strong arms that gripped him under the armpits.
A word to the wise. Gravity catches up with all of us in the long run. I'm not saying that old men should keep out of the clubs; I certainly don't want to be robbed of free entertainment, but we all have limits and there is only so much the body can take.
I know how I feel the day after major exertion on the dance floor, so what is it about our older Ghanaian men who can't get it into their heads that excessive jiggling about at the night clubs is not the way to impress the young women, apart from the fact that their age, stamina and gravity will undoubtedly rear their ugly heads when least expected.
I'm sure older men across the African continent also have those feelings of invincibility that our Ghanaian club hopping geriatrics exhibit. But what is it about the African man?
Is it arrogance, invincibility or those silly myths that white people hold about black men? A mixture of the three, I suppose.
But is the embarrassment worth it, especially if after the Herculean attempt, the young woman is lost to a much younger man, you become a laughing stock, a comic tale for others to tell their friends and you wake up the next morning feeling like death warmed up or worse still, in a crouching dragon position in a hospital bed with Hell's Angels (Ghanaian nurses) screeching and admonishing you to act your age? Is it worth it?
Let's hear it for the boys!
MY FRIEND ARRIVED ranting and raving, tearing his hair out about the problems he was having with a carpenter he had contracted to make some chairs, obviously furious, as things hadn't gone the way he had envisaged.
It got me thinking about some of the issues I faced when I moved into my house, and then I remembered that other group of bad service providers who deserved to be exposed.
Carpenters, tilers, electricians, plumbers, so-called interior decorators, you know whom I'm talking about - Artisans. At some time or other we all come into contact with them, and if anything goes wrong, you have to painfully enye hwee and 'take it as it is.'
I have had two particularly hellacious experiences, which left me feeling so powerless, until I took my own action.
While living abroad, if I experienced the artisan from Hades, I would be on the phone to the Citizens Advice Bureau faster than a bullet or ringing the workman's company to make a stiff complaint and expecting results. Here, the 'take it as it is' syndrome is so prevalent that everyone expects and accepts bad service that the artisans - who in the majority are self employed - think it is their right to dish out whatever they want.
Recently, I had carpenters at my house to discuss putting shelves up in my kitchen. While I talked about shelves, the head carpenter talked about cabinets. I kept reminding him that I wanted shelves, not cabinets.
He insisted on cabinets, saying, “In Ghana, shelves and cabinets are the same thing.”
Shelves and Cabinets the same? Ha! I quickly invented a sudden urgent appointment and promised to contact them later on. I didn't.
Artisans here don't ever want to accept that the consumer, though not knowing the intricacies of the job, knows what they want.
The moment you ask an artisan to do something that deviates from what they know, they tell you that it's not possible, that their way is the only way things are done here.
I call them the ‘Masters of Can't.’
Even worse, they'll listen attentively, assuring you that they know and can do exactly what you want, then turn around and do what they want.
I contracted another carpenter to make a set of very simple chairs. Thinking I was smarter than my ugly chairs friend, I gave the carpenter pictures from a catalogue and wrote down all the dimensions. We discussed everything at length and I was naive enough to believe that he knew what he was talking about and would do a good job. He sounded so plausible.
Boy, did I learn a lesson!
After chasing him for months on end and hearing story after story, he finally arrived with the chairs one late evening. The first thing I noticed was that one of the chair legs was shorter than the other three. All the chairs had the same problem of balance. I rocked backward and forwards on each one in an exaggerated manner while he stood grinning sheepishly. I asked him to sort out the problem and bring the chairs back in the daytime for me to inspect properly. He promised to return the next afternoon.
He returned four days later in the night. Again! There was a minute improvement in the way the chairs balanced, but the rest, I was lost for words and just took them in, plucking splinters out of my palms.
The finish was horrendous, to say the least.
I looked at those chairs for two days getting more and more upset, and to make matters worse, friends would make derogatory comments and tell me that they knew a better carpenter - they weren't helping matters.
On the third day, I took the chairs back and demanded a refund.
The carpenter had a handy bag of excuses. As far as he was concerned, the chairs were fine.
Yeah, they had four uneven legs, a back and a seat, but the finish!
Never in a million years was he ready to admit that his handy work was bad even though other passers-by agreed with me. He refused to pay up, but he didn't know that he had met the unhappy customer from hell.
I hounded him for months on end and still he refused to refund my money. It got so bad that he would run away from his workshop when he saw me coming, or duck into a corner if he saw me on the streets. When we did come face to face - when he hadn't been quick enough to hide - he would tell me that he intended to pay but he needed to sell the chairs first.
Looking at the state of the chairs, hell would have frozen over first before he ever managed to sell them. In effect, he was saying that I'd never get my money back.
Oh, how little he knew.
I became the bitch from the hell!
Amazed and exasperated by my tenacity, he turned up at my doorstep with several of his relatives to beg on his behalf. They begged and cajoled but I was insistent that I wasn't going to enye hwee it or 'take it as it is,' I didn't care whom he brought to beg on his behalf, I wanted my money back.
He returned the next week with even more family members, asking me to forgive and forget as he didn't have the money. Sorry folks, but I got annoyed and made it clear to them that the only solution was for him to either refund my money or improve the quality of the chairs - which I knew he was incapable of. I showed them the door.
A few months later, he finally threw in the towel and paid up.
It's the only way to deal with them, if not, they'll take you for a long ride.
At the time of getting my money back, it had devalued considerably, so you may think I went to too much trouble, but it's the principle not the money that counts. Am I getting defensive?
I once had a cheeky tiler tell me when I specified how the tiles should be cut and positioned, that I must have white blood in me. I didn't like what the statement implied and asked him to explain.
He said, “It's only the white people who are so choosy about things.”
He thought that it was fine for white people to be specific and fussy about their things but not Ghanaians. Or is it that Ghanaians don't care enough or deserve good quality things? I bit back a sarcastic comment and asked him through painfully gritted teeth to do just as I asked. Especially, as I was paying for the service.
He did a fantastic job but I had to stand over him and watch all the time, which leads me to the conclusion that they are capable of taking their time and doing a great job, but only if you are physically present, if not, then you will suffer the consequences.
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